South of the Columbia and north of California, scores of wild green rivers come tumbling down out of the evergreen, ever-west forests of the Coast Range. These rivers are short—twenty to sixty miles, most of them—but they carry a lot of water. They like to run fast through the woods, roaring and raising hell during rainstorms and run-offs, knocking down streamside cedars and alders now and again to show they know who it is dumping trashy leaves and branches in them all the time. But when they get within a few miles of the ocean, they aren’t so brash. They get cautious down there, start sidling back and forth digging letters in their valleys—C’s, S’s, U’s, L’s, and others from their secret alphabet—and they quit roaring and start mumbling to themselves, making odd sounds like jittery orators clearing their throats before addressing a mighty audience. Or sometimes they say nothing at all but just slip along in sullen silence, as though they thought that if they snuck up on the Pacific softly enough it might not notice them, might not swallow them whole the way it usually does.
- The River Why
I had a really magic moment when I read that passage sitting in Beijing last May. Slouched in an armchair on the sun room/balcony of my apartment, I was surrounded by natural light. It was a quiet Saturday afternoon and the sky was filled with voluminous gray clouds, with visibility clear to the mountains.
I started by reading the first two sentences of the chapter and awestruck, just had to stop. I shifted to sit up a little straighter and closed my eyes briefly for focus. This was going to be brilliant. I wanted to savor every word. I returned to the beginning and started again, reading it slowly, deliberately.
As my mind reached the last word and hung there, I leaned back and stared out the window. Almost imperceptibly, I felt a weird sense that the world was taking a deep breath. Without warning, the wind began to blow. Hard. Dust and leaves were whipped up from the streets below, flung up into the air and reaching above my ninth-floor eye level. It was a gift—suddenly seeing, hearing, and feeling the amazing power of nature I had just read about. I sat there for nearly an hour, motionless.
In the year I’ve lived in Beijing, I’ve often missed the people that made my life in Seattle so rich and blessed, but I’ve rarely missed the place itself. That day, for the first time, I felt an insatiable urge to go home, starting in the pit of my stomach and rising up to my throat. I needed to into those forests, I wanted to go camping and breathe in the magnificent air and listen to the roar of the rivers and admire the magnificence of each tree trunk.
As luck would have it, three weeks later I found myself on the trail to Annette Lake, less than an hour outside of Seattle, inhaling the wonderful smell of damp evergreens with a backpack slung on my back. It could not have been better. I found a campsite next to the still-partially frozen lake, the cool evening air filled with the sound of a medium-sized waterfall at the end of the lake. When I woke the next morning and unzipped my tent flap, I looked out to see a mystical forest shrouded in fog.
It was beautiful. It was perfect. It’s one of those amazing things you don’t realize how great it is until you don’t have it.
I can’t wait to get back.